Just Chengdu It

School’s out for summer! I have officially completed my junior year in college, which is both thrilling and terrifying. Am I really about to be a senior? Where did all of the time ago? Is the speed at which we hurtle through the universe too much to bear? Maybe yes, but let’s not let that get in the way of me having a good time. After packing up my worldly possessions into a suitcase, I’m on my way home.

But first, I have an extended layover in a new place. China recently introduced a 144-hour transit visa for a variety of countries that usually would require a more heavy-duty visa, including the States. I decided to take advantage of this opportunity (as well as my friend Will’s hospitality) and hit the city of Chengdu on my way home.

Because I flew Sichuan Airlines, of course they had Lao Gan Ma (chili crisp) to plus up the in-flight meal.

In case you’ve been living under a rock for the past few years, the US and China aren’t exactly on the greatest of terms. As such, I was a little nervous about what would happen at the airport after I landed. I had a plethora of documents prepared for my meeting with the customs officials. I brought several copies of a letter written by Will explaining who I was and why I was coming to Chengdu, along with his address (where I would be staying) and his phone number. I had a printed copy of my itinerary, with my direct flight to LAX clearly indicated. I even had some passport-sized photos of myself, just in case.

I was definitely a little nervous sitting in front of the customs officials as they scrutinized my forms and flipped through my passports. A few feet from me, a woman was feigning sleep on the floor, presumably stuck in bureaucratic red tape and unable to leave that section of the airport. I certainly did not want to end up like her. But after about 15 minutes of standard questions, a phone call to Will, and some more forms, I was stamped through immigration and was on my way.

Thrilled to avoid a Brittany Griner situation!

Chengdu is a city of 20 million people, and the capital of Sichuan province, but I had never heard of it before I met Will. China has several cities with populations over 10 million that 95% of Americans have never heard of (I’m assuming this figure, and I have very little faith in the average American geographical knowledge), which is incredible. That’s more people than New York City. Chengdu is a gleaming metropolis, and their subway system has a whopping 18 lines.

I was determined to sample as much authentic Chinese cuisine as I could. But “Chinese cuisine” is a misnomer, because China has a wide variety of regional cuisines (as does India and many other countries, but that is not often represented in the American restaurant scene – case in point, try to find a dosa (ubiquitous South Indian crepe that is everywhere in Singapore) in America). The most well-known ones are Cantonese (which is generally what we think of as Chinese food in the States), Shandong, and Sichuan. Sichuan cuisine is famous for being spicy and garlicky, as well as for the tongue-numbing Sichuan peppercorns (known as mala).

My first bowl of authentic dan dan mian is spectacular, and contains a surprising ingredient: chickpeas! It really helps make the noodles creamy, but I’ve never seen them like this in the States.

Will’s neighborhood is known for being international, and it’s just as well because I have to go down to the police station with him and register my residence, even though I’m only staying for a few days. But it’s full of trees and some cool architecture. They have Lawson, a convivence store I don’t think I have seen outside of Japan.

We have a little traditional tea time down at an old temple. It’s a very chill vibe.

After months of tropical heat, the weather in Chengdu is glorious. 70s and sunny is perfect for some light cycling.

For about a dollar, I get some fried potatoes with a spicy sauce. Street food here isn’t on the Thai or Vietnamese level, but there are mobile vendors hawking snacks and produce floating around.

Like I mentioned earlier, cash isn’t used much at all in China. Neither are credit cards. The vast majority of purchases are made through third-party apps, most notably WeChat (which I downloaded in advance because all Western social media apps and websites (including Google) are blocked in China). WeChat is China’s premier messaging app, but you also use it to pay for goods and services by scanning QR codes. I did it myself a few times. But if you have Ali Pay (a similar application), you can pay just by scanning your face, as Will demonstrates below.

We monkeyed around at dinner (no that’s not Planet of the Apes promo, it’s an art installation). That building on the left is absolutely gargantuan, this photo does not do it justice because it is the largest building IN THE WORLD by floor area.

The next morning, Will had an interview so I recused myself from his apartment and set out for a solo morning. I managed to make my way to a cafe, get a coffee and a pastry, and get on the WiFi to watch the NBA Playoffs all with a Mandarin vocabulary consisting of little more than “hello,” “thank you,” “yes,” and various food items. You can clap now. We got some A+ dumplings afterwards.

The art museum had a bunch of stuff on loan from Tokyo, including some famous stuff of Napoleon and a Andy Warhol. The architecture was sick as well, and the museum was situated on a man-made lake with some government buildings and a mall. Also, everywhere I went in Chengdu I saw luxury stores with names I only know from Pusha T songs (“Givenchy fittin’ like its gym clothes / We really gym stars, I’m like D-Rose / No D-league, I’m like these clothes / 88′ Jordan leaping from the free throw”).

Lunch was more noodles, because I’m not sick of them yet! This is zhajiangmian, from which the more well-known (at least to me) Korean jajangmyeon was derived. The Chinese iteration is a simple soybean sauce, compared to the Korean version, which features much thicker black bean sauce. There was also a steamed egg, ala the Japanese chawanmushi. I washed it down with a delicious orange soda that contains some amount of real orange, judging from the sediment.

Some more old temple action

Dinner was dim sum (though it is Cantonese), including a surprisingly delicious pigeon. I had never had squab before, and was shocked by how rich and fatty it was. I felt a little sorry for it, but it was very tasty.

Everywhere you go in Chengdu you see pandas. Pandas are on billboards, art, public transportation, and more. So I was more than ready to see the real deal. A little ways outside the city is essentially a zoo dedicated to pandas, where visitors flock from all over China to observe pandas either eating or sleeping (thrilling). They also had red pandas, which seem more like foxes than bears.

Lunch was at a real local establishment that dated back to the 80s. I had the pleasure of sampling real authentic mapo tofu a few different times, and I gotta say, the one my family makes at home isn’t too far off! Definitely a lot spicier here though.

There are a few Old City areas aimed at tourists, with wall to wall amenities, including the unexpected.

Peking duck for dinner was a dream come true. The guy sliced it with precision right at our table, and he did it with a big meat cleaver, no special knife. Very impressive.

There was a whole Tibetan street full of stores with cool outfits and giant gold Buddhist shrines.

One thing about Chengdu that reminded me very much of Japan was the balance and integration of the ancient and the tranquil with the modern hectic world. Parks and temples mingle with modern malls and subway stations.

My departing thoughts on China: I want to see more of this amazing country. And I’m calling on Biden to squash the beef with China. Politicians on both sides of the Pacific have been doing their best to start a second Cold War, but we have so much more to offer each other as friends rather than adversaries. I think the United States would be a better place if we were more like China in some ways, and I think vice versa for China. My year abroad has strengthened my Nehruvian outlook on the world and geopolitics. In light of this, I would urge my readers to think critically about what they read about China, and consider where what they read is coming from. It’s not North Korea.

One very long flight and one short flight later, I was in Oakland enjoying some traditional American cuisine.

The first taste of Dr. Pepper in like a year was magical.

And just like that, I’m home. What a crazy whirlwind this year was. I already know I’m gonna miss everything that Singapore has to offer, especially the food. Thanks for following along with my adventure! But I may be spending a decent portion of my summer in a new, exciting location so watch this space for that…

Cheers,

Zev